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Caring
for Protea
The
common names for different proteas promise extravagance, and proteas
deliver. Their "flowers" (actually a head or cluster of long, narrow,
tubular flowers, often surrounded by colorful petal-like leaves
or bracts) come in unbelievable sizes, shapes, textures, and color
ranges.
These
bizarre plants are native to South Africa and Australia. Many people
have never seen (or felt) a protea or tried growing one.
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But
proteas are coming on scene. They're easier to find in nurseries,
but you still must go to specialist nurseries to find more
than three or four different kinds. More are on the way.
Growers
in the West have just begun hybridization of these showoff
bloomers. The reason? There's just not as much mystery any
more (for commercial or home growers) as to why proteas suddenly
turn suicidal. Keep them thirsty, not soggy, and they'll probably
thank you with good growth and bloom.
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Who
can Grow Proteas?
One
protea grower told us, "If you can grow a avocado, you can grow
a protea." Most members of this plant group do best where temperatures
are moderate; they may tolerate extreme 100°f to 105°f for
a day or two, but developing flower buds or new growth may be burned;
give them a drink during these times. Below 25°f, most proteas
will suffer damage ranging from leaf burn to death.
Give
proteas a spot on a southwest- or southeast-facing slope with good
drain age, except in hottest inland areas, where a north-facing
slope would be cooler. Cooler locations will give more intense colors.
Plants
should get full sun for at least six hours a day. They do best in
an open location where air moves freely to moderate the temperatures.
Successful
protea growers cite well-drained soil as the key to winning with
these feisty plants. Proteas grow lateral roots near the surface,
and water must not stand around those roots. Decomposed granite
and other sandy-textured soils are ideal.
Most
kinds of proteas do best in slightly acid soil (pH 5.5 to 7); some
tolerate alkaline conditions (see chart).
Buying
Proteas
At
a nursery you can find proteas in container sizes from 2- inch to
5-gallon. Plants in 4-inch pots to 1-gallon cans have the best chance
of surviving (they're young enough to adapt to new conditions but
have root systems developed enough to sustain them through transplanting).
Select protea with some new growth and healthy-looking leaves (not
off-color or burned).
Protea
are grown from seeds or cuttings. How do you tell the difference?
It's tricky, so most gardeners rely on nursery staff to tell them.
It's important to know. Proteus started from seed grow just leaves
and branches for about two years or so, developing substantial size
and shape before they bloom. It is impossible to tell exactly what
the flowers or the plant shape of seedling proteas will look like;
you might grow something new.
You
know what you're getting with plants grown from cuttings: they'll
be just like their parent plants. These plants bloom sooner- perhaps
after a year or so in the ground- but they grow more slowly than
protea started from seed.
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Planting
Proteas : Nothing too Tricky
Dig
a hole about two or three times the diameter of the plant's
pot and two or three times deeper. In poorly drained or slightly
heavy soil, add some gypsum, organic material-fir bark, peat,
or forest humus works best-to the planting hole and back-fill
soil. Plant directly in well-drained soils. Keep the rootball
intact, slightly above soil line, not in a basin.
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Water
to settle the soil around the roots, then spread a mulch such as
pebble bark at least 1 inch deep around the plant, away from main
stem. Since proteas develop best when their roots are cool, keep
a thick layer of mulch around plants for at least two years or until
plants are large enough to shade their own roots. Also, to keep
very young plants cool, shade them with newspaper or a wire cage.
Palm fronds are excellent.
A
few kinds of proteas will grow and even bloom in large containers.
If you don't have the right conditions in your garden. Try growing
them in large tubs or pots. Where you can control soil type, drainage,
temperature, and watering.
Early
Care
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Most
of the difficulty in growing proteas probably results from
over watering. Soil around roots must be slightly heavy soil,
add some organic material; fir bark, peat, or forest humus
works best; to the planting hole and back-fill soil. Plant
directly in well- drained soils. Keep the rootball intact.
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Water
to settle the soil around the roots, then spread a mulch such as
pebble bark at least 1 inch is permitted to dry out almost completely
between watering or roots could rot. Check soil before watering;
very young plants shouldn't dry completely. Check every three days
when young.
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To
stop gophers, consider lining the planting hole with chicken
wire.
Freshly
cut flowers will last two weeks or more in water. Change water
daily, add 7-Up, and cut about 1/4-inch off stem ends every
three of four days to lengthen their vase life. To dry flowers,
remove them from water when blooms are fully open and still
fresh. Place them in a container or hang them in a bunch upside-down
for two or three weeks.
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Avoid
dry fertilizers; they can burn sensitive roots. Seek professional
advise before fertilization.
Insects
don't seem to bother proteas. Deer and rabbits may browse on plants;
protect young proteas with a wire cage. Remove after the first year.
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